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武汉调酒培训班 调酒培训学校 就来武汉威士特专业调酒师培训

解读苹果白兰地apple brandy calvados*部分

从传统风土到20世纪为改变形象而做出的努力，法国苹果白兰地正在挣脱枷锁，放眼未来。David Friesen撰文。

From its traditional terroir, through struggles to be taken seriously in the 20th century, French apple brandy calvados is now shaking off its stuffy shackles and looking to the future. By David Friesen.

Past / 过去

作为一个对香槟、波尔多葡萄酒和其他区域性产品有着严格规定的*，法国的苹果白兰地——卡尔瓦多斯——也和风土密不可分。这主要是因为卡尔瓦多斯的产区诺曼底有着近乎完美的苹果种植条件:丰富的粘土中含有燧石，可以有效锁住水分，再加上温和的冬季、温暖的夏季与适度的风和雨，营造出了苹果的快乐天堂。苦中带甜的西打苹果（由不同品种的苹果组成，每个酿酒商的西打苹果都不一样）被采摘下来，榨汁后发酵成干型西打，通常酒渣陈年至少六个月，然后再进行蒸馏。根据西打的不同，用小型蒸馏塔或单罐将其蒸馏一次或两次，蒸馏出来的就是生命之水，之后以橡木桶陈年。

Just as you might imagine from a country that has very specific regulations for champagne, bordeaux and other region-specific products, the French apple brandy calvados is tied to its terroir. Mostly this is because the region, Normandy, is almost perfect for apple growing. The rich clay soil, mixed with flint that allows excellent water reserves is balanced with Normandy’s mild winters, warm summers and a good balance of rain and wind to create a happy apple haven. The bittersweet cider apples – the blend of varieties vary from producer to producer – are harvested, pressed into juice and then fermented into dry cider, aged usually for at least six months on its lees before distillation begins. This is then turned into eau de vie, distilled in a small column or single pot still either once or twice depending on the type, and then aged in oak casks.

武汉调酒培训班 调酒培训学校 就来武汉威士特专业调酒师培训

数百年来，人们一直在种植各种各样的苹果并酿造西打——这一历史甚至可以追溯到罗马人占领时期。称霸欧洲的查理大帝促进了果树栽培及其产量提高。这使得西打和葡萄酒在15世纪的法国酒饮市场上平分秋色，特别是在诺曼人征服了欧洲之后。新苹果品种和酿造方法从西班牙传入，西打生产迅速在诺曼底和布列塔尼流传开来，并在17世纪得到进一步扩张。但后来贪婪的法国贵族对苹果白兰地实施监管、课以重税，以维持他们的奢侈生活，其中尤以路易十四为最。在苹果白兰地最初的崛起之后，接踵而来的混乱持续了一个多世纪——直到法国大革命之后，苹果白兰地才被正式称为“卡尔瓦多斯”。从那时起，它几乎变成了工人阶级的专属酒饮:为了提神，他们在本地酒吧喝加了苹果白兰地的咖啡，这就是所谓的“卡尔瓦咖啡”文化。连绵不断的战争也产生了不利影响:法国大革命、拿破仑、一战再到二战，法国苹果白兰地一直都是属于军队和本地混混的酒。它变得工业化了，而不是手工化。不过，1940年代出现了改变的迹象。1942年，卡尔瓦多斯产区被正式授予法定产区称号，奥日地区的独特风土和荣耀传统得以重新发扬光大。二战后，酒厂纷纷重建，卡尔瓦多斯似乎也将要浴火重生——有如骄傲的“苹果”凤凰。

Apples of all types have been cultivated, and used to make cider, in the region as far back as the Roman occupation, continuing throughout the centuries. European badass Charlemagne was instrumental in creating the orchardist culture and ramping up production. This led to 15th century boozing in France being eual parts cider and wine, particularly once the Normans got hold of everything. New apple varietals and methods were introduced from Spain, with production continuing apace throughout Normandy and Brittany, expanding further in the 17th century. But then cider brandy was controlled and highly taxed by greedy French nobility, starting with Louis XIV, looking to maintain their lavish lifestyles. The period that followed cider brandy’s initial rise was a wilderness that lasted for well over a century – it was not until after the French Revolution that the term “calvados” was established for the spirit. From then on it became something of a working class tipple – the “cafe calva” culture, where apple brandy was consumed with coffee in local bars for a particularly peppy pick-me-up. Constant wars didn’t help – from Vive la Revolution, Napoleon and WW1 and up to WW2, French apple brandy was a low-grade, mass market product for troops and local troublemakers. It became industrial rather than artisan. A change was in the air by the 1940s though; in 1942 the first appellation controlee (AOC) regulations were finalised for the calvados region, to try and re-establish its proud terroir and traditional roots in the Pays d’Auge region. After WW2, distilleries were rebuilt, and calvados looked like it would rise from the ashes – a proud pingguo phoenix.